Articles
Custom Justice Customizer of the Month July 2008
The CAPE 2008 Report
"Best Action Figures" named by D Magazine 2007
The CAPE 2007 Report
20 Questions with Casimir at AFHUB
Casimir's Collection (November 2006) at AFHUB
The CAPE 2006 Report
Casimir's Collector Profile at Eternal Collector
Casimir interviewed by the Plano Insider
Casimir interviewed by eBay
Casimir's Collection (September 2005)
The Scooter Connection
The CAPE 2005 Report
The CAPE 2004 Report

The MOST Common Questions
Q: Will you sell me a figure, and if so how much?
Q: Where can I find stands for my figures?
Tools & Materials
Q: What do I need to start customizing?
Q: What materials do I need to start customizing?
Q: What is a an X-acto knife and mat knife?
Q: What is a Dremel?
Q: What is a Dremel box?
Q. How can I sand figures to a smooth finish?
Q: What is Kneadatite?
Q: Where can I purchase Kneadatite?
Q: What is Plumbers Epoxy?
Q: Where can I purchase Plumbers Epoxy?
Q: What is Super Sculpey?
Q: Where can I purchase Super Sculpey?
Q: What is MagicSculpt?
Q: Where can I purchase MagicSculpt?
Q: What sculpting medium do you use?
Q: What is Alumilite?
Q: Where can I purchase Alumilite?
Q: How do I make a mold for casting?
Q: What are "various sharp pointy things?"
Q: Where can I purchase raw vinyl?
Q: Why would I need access to a computer?
Q: Where can I find emblems to print?
Q: Where can I find printed backdrops?
Q: What is modeling paste?
Q: What is matte gel medium?
Q: How do I use gel medium to affix emblems on figures?
Q: What is styrene?
Painting
Q: What kinds of paint do I use?
Q: Can I use enamels, such as Testors brand?
Q: How can I get vibrant, smooth colors with acrylics?
Q: What color did you use for (any random) custom?
Q: How do I mix colors?
Q: How can I paint those tiny little details like eyes?
Q: What is primer?
Q: Should I spray my figures grey? White? Black?
Q: Can I use spray paint to paint my figures?
Q: What is Dull Cote?
Q: Where can I purchase Dull Cote?
Construction
Q: How do I swap limbs on a figure?
Q: How do I swap heads on a figure?
Q: What is the “boil and pop” method?
Q: What is the “wrap and shape” method?
General Questions
Q: Where can I see other great customs?
Q: I've got photos of my own customs. If I send them to you will you host them for me?
Q: I represent a charity/non-profit organization. Would you be willing to donate some of your work?
Q: I know you don't normally sell your figures, but my favorite relative is getting married soon. Will you make me a set of wedding figures for the cake?
Q: I've got photos of my own customs. If I send you some images, will you critique them for me?
Q: I've designed my own characters and I hope to sell them as a comic book/video game/ cartoon. Will you make some figures based on my designs?
Q: Where do you get your ideas?
Q: How do you manage to use so many Harleys/ Supergirls/ Hawkgirls/ DCDs and other rare or expensive figures?
Q: Will you sell or trade a figure from your stock?
Q: How do you store your stock parts and fodder?
Q: What's your work space like?
Q: How do I take great photos of figures?
About Casimir & Inanimate Objects
Q: How do I find your stuff on eBay?
Q: Why did you begin customizing Batman figures?
Q: Why not Star Wars, Marvel, Buffy or (random sci-fi project)?
Q: How can I get a job in the toy industry like you?
Q: How long has the site been open?
Q: What was the inspiration for the site's design?
Q: Where else can Casimir be found?
Q: How many years have you been making your own action figures?
Q: How do you decide which figures to make next?
Q: How much time and money goes into each figure?
Q: How long have you been a Batman fan?

A: On extremely rare occasions, I will take on a commission. The fact is, between work, family and my own projects, I rarely have the luxury of time for commissions.So chances are, no, I won't be able to create and sell a custom on demand. (And the existing figures are not for sale.) Alternatively, I hope that my web site will inspire others to try their hand at this satisfying hobby.

A: The black foot-peg stands seen throughout this site were purchased directly from a dealer at a comic book/sci-fi convention many years ago. However, I’ve heard very good things about realstands.com. The Type I stands fit modern Star Wars, and with a little effort can fit Mattel’s Justice League. (I usually drill the foot hole a bit wider in the latter’s case.) The Type II stands fit vintage Star Wars, most DC Direct, Hasbro Batman lines, McFarlane, LOTR, and most anything else.

A: Lots of patience. It doesn't happen at once. Start with some simple projects (repaints) and then take on more difficult chores. Also, I recommend you visit the sites of numerous customizers. Most will give a fairly detailed accounting of the techniques they use, and most are also happy to answer any specific questions you might have.

Q. How can I sand figures to a smooth finish?

A: Every substance has its own qualities, be it ABS or PVC plastics, Kneadatite or Alumilite, styrene or wood. If I need to remove a large mass of something that can't simply be cut off with a mat knife or saw, I'll reduce that mass with the large, coarse sanding drum on the Dremel, or sometimes I'll use the 1" upright belt sander in the garage. Usually that's not needed, so I'll start with the fine sanding drum. From there, I may go at it with the polishing brush bit, or I might switch to some medium-to-fine sandpaper (I prefer 220). More often than not I'll go back and forth between paper and bits. When I'm satisfied, I'll put a final polish on using some extremely fine sandpaper (so smooth it feels almost like normal paper). Some materials sand better than others. It's just a matter of patience, really. For the record, I hate sanding. But it has to be done.

A: Kneadatite is a two-part, air-drying compound. It's primarily designed as a plumber's epoxy, but artisans have found it to be a great sculpting medium. When mixed, it is pliable and holds its shape. It cures in about four hours with a consistency not unlike PVC plastic. I prefer Kneadatite over heat-drying mediums as I don't risk heat damage to the base figures. (Some of my earlier projects were destroyed in the oven while trying to cure Sculpey.) Also, Kneadatite is very durable when dried. It has a slight flexibility that allows it to "give" under pressure without snapping. I've used a number of materials in my time and this is by far the best solution I've found. (A special thanks to Yer Pal Boneyard for introducing me to this.) For more information about Kneadatite, please visit the manufacturer’s site polymerics.com.

A: A plumber's epoxy is any sort of compound that's used to seal pipe fittings. However, many plumbers epoxies make great sculpting mediums as well. Kneadatite above is but one example. A more typical plumbers epoxy is available at most home improvement stores. It usually dries quickly (5-20 minutes) and has a rock-like texture. I've found this to be useful when sculpting large areas or filling large holes that don't require much detail. It can be sanded smooth and then painted. It also makes a mild adhesive.

A: Sculpey and Super Sculpey are popular sculpting mediums easily available at most hobby/craft stores. It requires heat to cure, so the sculpt time is not limited. It allows for very fine detail work (especially Super Sculpey), and is easily shaped. However, once cured it can be very fragile. Don’t drop your Sculpey sculpts! Also, if you’re sculpting directly on a plastic base figure, you’ll want to boil the Sculpey for about three minutes, as 12 minutes in the oven could warp your base figure. (Just to be safe, when boiling Sculpey I use an old pot that won’t be used to cook food.)

Q: What is MagicSculpt?

A: MagicSculpt is yet another two-part sculpting compound. Like Kneadatite and Plumbers Epoxy. By mixing equal parts of the two dough-like substances, you create a pliable sculpting medium. Like Kneadatite, it takes at least four hours to cure, if not more. The cured MagicSculpt is not unlike hard ABS plastic. It's incredibly easy to keep smooth. Simply keep your fingers damp. Be warned, though! Water works so well at smoothing this stuff out, the MagicSculpt practically melts. As such, I've found MagicSculpt to be excellent for filling in etched lines or small holes. For true sculpting, I recommend mixing up an appropriate amount and then waiting about thirty minutes before actually using it. The stuff's just too insubstantial otherwise.

A: Depending on the requirements, I use plumber’s epoxy, Kneadatite, MagicSculpt and Super Sculpey. The plumber’s epoxy is fairly rough stuff. It’s not easy to sculpt small details with it. Plus, it’s fairly sticky and cures in about five minutes. I use it to fill in large holes.

My most common medium is Kneadatite. I use it for almost anything. It has a reasonable working time of about 2 hours, takes fine details, and is strong once cured. Be sure to keep your figures and tools damp with water while sculpting to avoid those pesky fingerprints! (Some folks think Kneadatite is not good for small sculpted details. That's just because they refuse to keep their fingers and tools damp.)

I've found MagicSculpt to be great for filling in etched lines or seams. With water it smooths very easily. It can also be used for detailed sculpts, and I hope to do more with it, though I find it more difficult to work with than Kneadatite.

II'll use Super Sculpey sparingly. It’s great for details, or projects that will take a great deal of time. (i.e. you can set it down and come back to it days later.) My Mxyzptlk was made entirely from Super Sculpey (except the hat). If I’m in a hurry, and feel the fragile nature of Super Sculpey won’t be a risk, I’ll use Super Sculpey on a project and boil it, rather than waiting four hours for Kneadatite to completely cure. (See the work in progress photos of Firefly or Gorilla Grodd to see Super Sculpey and Kneadatite used on the same figure.) Again, I do this sparingly.

If you care to try your hand at more advanced two-part molds, there’s plenty of information on the internet. Here’s a good place to start: Dan Perez Studios.

Q: What are "various sharp pointy things?"

A: When sculpting, you'll find the best tools are whatever you have at hand. The truth is, you never know what you might need. I keep a selection of old dental picks, pens, letter openers, tooth picks, etc. on hand whenever I'm sculpting.

Q: Where can I purchase raw vinyl?

A: Clear raw vinyl can usually be found at better fabric stores. It's usually pretty darned cheap, too, especially if you buy the scraps. It’s usually available in varying thicknesses, so get a wide selection.

Q: Why would I need access to a computer?

A: Why, for all the great Inanimate Objects downloads, of course! You can print emblems and costume details, as well as the many Inanimate Objects Batcave memorials.

I’ve also used Photoshop to test ideas by making “virtual” customs. I’ll lay a figure on a scanner and scan an image of the (limb/head/chest/etc.) that I want to match to another scanned figure. This process doesn’t yield 100% results, especially since it only works in two dimensions, but it can give you a good idea of whether a proposed custom will work or not. It might just save you cutting into the costly rare figure!

Q: Where can I find emblems to print?

A: You can find all the Inanimate Objects downloads in the Customs section of this site.

Q: Where can I find printed backdrops?

A: If you see something printed in the backdrop of an Inanimate Objects photo that’s not on the download list, drop me an email. I may be able to help.

Q: What is modeling paste?

A: Modeling paste is a thick liquid that will dry into a chalky, rock like material. It's useful for some quick fixes and fills, but fairly difficult to use otherwise. Usually available at most art stores near the acrylic paints.

Q: What is matte gel medium?

A: Matte gel medium is a clear paint-like material, used in conjunction with various acrylic paint techniques. For my purposes, I use it as an adhesive for applying emblems that I've printed.

Q: How do I use gel medium to affix emblems on figures?

A: This is known as decoupage, and there are a number of ways to go about this. (There are also many other customizers out there who are higher authorities on this subject.) In general, you'll want to apply some of the gel medium to the back of the emblem, and some to the target area of the figure. Apply the emblem, and then use the brush to smooth out the excess gel medium along the edges. You can even brush the gel medium over the emblem, so as to seal it. This action along the edges also helps to smooth out the "seam" of the emblem, allowing it to appear as though it were printed directly on the figure. One warning: Don't smear too much if your emblems were made on an ink-jet printer. I've smeared many a super-hero symbol this way. (Laser printed emblems won’t smear.) If you do use ink-jet printed emblems, try spraying them with Testor's Dull Cote or some other fixative before applying to the figure with matte gel. Than can cut down on the smearing.

Q: What is styrene?

A: Styrene is a type of plastic, most commonly found in model kits. It's also available in raw sheets, rods and tubes, in various sizes and textures. Styrene can usually be found in hobby shops.

Q: What kinds of paint do I use?

A: Primarily, I use acrylic paints. Most any acrylics will work fine, be they the $.99 specials or the high-end professional series. Acrylics mix easily, dry quickly, and react well with primer.

Q: Can I use enamels, such as Testors brand?

A: I strongly recommend against the use of any enamels. They simply don't work well with plastic, and they rarely dry fully.

Q: How can I get vibrant, smooth colors with acrylics?

A: First, apply thin coats. I usually thin the acrylics with a drop or two of water on my brush. Thin coats might mean you have to apply several coats, but the smooth finish is worth the effort. Also, after I prime a figure, I'll often spray it with flat white. This allows the acrylics on top of the white to become vibrant.

Q: What color did you use for (any random) custom?

A: I get this question a lot, and the truth is I rarely use a color straight from the bottle/tube. I try to as often as possible, as the color is easier to replicate later if I need to, but most times I have to mix colors. Unless it's white, black, caucasian "flesh", and sometimes pure red or yellow, then the color is probably mixed.

Q: How do I mix colors?

A: There are entire books and courses of study devoted to this question. Needless to say, I can't even begin to scrape the surface here. Assuming you're already familiar with the color palette of pigment, acrylics mix well together. I usually mix up just as much as I need at a time. With a little patience, you should be able to achieve the color you're striving for. Just remember acrylics tend to dry a bit darker than what they appear to be in liquid form. Best to try a test on some scrap paper first.

Q: How can I paint those tiny little details like eyes?

A: First, make sure you have some tiny, clean brushes that come to a good point. Use only a small dab of paint on the brush. Beyond that, it takes practice, a steady hand, and luck. I often paint and eye, then cover over with a new base coat, and try a second time. Also, for you right-handed folks, the right side of the face is usually more difficult to pain. (And vice-versa.) Don't forget, to really make your figure's eyes "pop," paint them ever so slightly cross-eyed. (Unless you're painting a "realistic" figure.) That will make the eyes appear focused. Plus, adding a tiny white dot as a highlight helps, too.

Q: What is primer?

A: You'll always, ALWAYS, want to prime your sculpts before painting them. I use Krylon Grey Primer, available most everywhere. It reacts well with most plastics, and even most vinyls. (And don't forget to spray in a well ventilated area, and/or where a respirator of some kind.)

Q: Should I spray my figures grey? White? Black?

A: Depending on my intended goal, I'll often follow the grey with a coat of Krylon Flat White. This allows the acrylics to really show through vibrantly. On rare occasions I follow the grey with black. (See the Bane recipe.)

Q: Can I use spray paint to paint my figures?

A: Yes and no. Obviously, you'll want to use spray primers, as explained above. I'll sometimes apply spray paint to a large area that requires a single color. However, this can be tricky. It often requires masking off other parts of the figure. Also, most spray colors do not come in a matte or even semi-flat variety. Most are strictly available as glossy, and these rarely dry well on plastic. I've had some success using glossy sprays followed by Dullcote, but it's fairly hit or miss. I usually just buckle down and paint the whole thing with a brush. Besides, mixing paint to match a spray color in case of mistakes is tough!

Q: What is Dull Cote?

A: Dull Cote will become your best friend when you've finished a project. It's a matte sealer produced by Testors. (The company that makes enamel paints for models.) A few sprays of Dull Cote and your figure will have a smooth, even finish. Dull Cote is great for bringing paints of the same color but different luster into line with each other. Dull Cote will even help dry spray paints that refuse to dry. I've had good experience with Dull Cote on top of enamel sprays. Naturally, Dull Cote acts a protective sealant. Perhaps most important, though, Dull Cote does not act as a dust magnet, as so many other sealers do. I've had figures sprayed with Dull Cote on my shelves for years, and they collect no more dust than they should. Alternatively, I've had figures sealed in other brands that become giant dust bunnies in a month.

Q: Where can I purchase Dull Cote?

A: Most hobby stores that carry Testors products will have it. You can also learn more about Dull Cote via the Testors site.

Q: How do I swap limbs on a figure?

A: This is a big question. There’s a different answer for every customizer, and for every figure. As the mechanics of almost every figure is different from another, there is no single method. For my part, I’ve never tried to swap a ball-and-socket joint, only “cut” or “swivel” joints.

I’ve used several methods, but the one I’ve found works best is thus: On the target “base’ figure, I slice off the unwanted arm near the shoulder, but not right at the joint. Basically I leave a few millimeters worth of the arm, thus preserving the joint. I then apply a small amount of Kneadatite to the exposed joint, and then apply the wanted arm. The Kneadatite will fill out the imperfectly matching areas of the joint and the arm. Once cured, I’ll Dremel away the excess Kneadatite. Bam! Nice smooth arm joint with a new arm!

Q: How do I swap heads on a figure?

A: Another big question. Like limbs, very few heads match from figure to figure. If you’re looking at a ball-and-socket neck joint, the process can be even more complex.

Regarding boil and pop: Many folks will answer this head swapping question with the boil and pop answer (see below). However, this rarely works as most neck joints simply don’t match. Boiling is good for removing a head, but very difficult to add a head. I’ve done it, but even on the simple ones I usually find it to be too much trouble.

To make a simple swivel neck joint: I usually start by simply cutting off the unwanted head of the target base figure, and the wanted head of another figure. If a hole is present in the neck of the target figure, so much the better. If not, I’ll drill a hole into the neck, down into the body. I then drill a shallow hole at the base of the new head. After drilling, I find a piece of styrene rod that very nearly matches the size of the holes, cutting off an inch or so of the rod to be used as a neck peg. The peg is then Superglued into the shallow hole of the head. The head (with new peg) can now be placed into the hole on the neck of the body. If the hole is a bit too large and fit is not snug, you can use masking or Scotch tape to increase the thickness of the styrene peg by wrapping layers around the peg. When you’re done, you have a smooth, functional neck swivel joint!

Q: What is the “boil and pop” method?

A: “Boil and Pop” refers to the act of immersing a plastic figure in boiling water. After about 45 seconds, the softer PVC plastics (usually used in heads and limbs) will soften enough that they can then be “popped” out with a good strong tug. This is a good way to remove parts (usually heads) while preserving a joint mechanism. It’s not 100% guaranteed, but it often gets results. Just to be safe, I use an old pot that won’t be used to cook food.

Q: What is the “wrap and shape” method?

A: “Wrap and shape" is the technique by which one wraps a figure in a protective layer, such as cellophane, and then adds and shapes a sculpting medium on top. The cured sculpt can then be easily removed from the figure, and the protective layer discarded. This is a great method to create over-the-shoulder capes and mantles. See Classic Ra's al Ghul and Batman in the gallery.

Q: Where can I see other great customs?

A: There are three places I recommend. Some of my personal favorites can be found in the Exotic Locales section of this site. There are also a number of talented artists who are affiliates of the Custom Coalition. Finally, a great list of customizers can be found at Raving Toy Maniac’s Custom Central.

Q: I've got photos of my own customs. If I send them to you will you host them for me?

A: Unfortunately, I am only able to feature my own work at this time. However, Custom Central at Raving Toy Maniac hosts galleries for customizers.

Q: I represent a charity/non-profit organization. Would you be willing to donate some of your work?

A: As with selling my figures, it's not a matter of money so much as time. I simply don't have the time to fulfill such requests. I'd be happy to offer advice and tips to those who might like to try custom toy making themselves.

Q: I know you don't normally sell your figures, but my favorite relative is getting married soon. Will you make me a set of wedding figures for the cake?

A: Sorry, but no. I simply don't have the time or resources to invest in producing more than my share of projects.

Q: I've got photos of my own customs. If I send you some images, will you critique them for me?

A: I'm always happy to offer suggestions and help. However, I'd prefer if the images were posted to a web site rather than emailed. If you must email, please be sure to send only a few files, and images of no more than 72 dpi at 8 inches tall. Please keep in mind that I live a very busy life, and it may take some time before I can reply.

Q: I've designed my own characters and I hope to sell them as a comic book/video game/ cartoon. Will you make some figures based on my designs?

A: Outside of professional requests, I simply don't have the time to take on commissioned projects.

Q: Where do you get your ideas?

A: The shows, the comics… leftover parts. If the Joker shows up in a scene wearing a swimsuit, and I think it's funny or it'll look good on the shelf, chances are I'll make it. Then I think about associations. I can't remember Harley in a swimsuit in an episode, but a swimsuit Joker needs a swimsuit Harley. So really, there's no specific place. I simply try to keep an open mind.

Q: How do you manage to use so many Harleys/ Supergirls/ Hawkgirls/ DCDs and other rare or expensive figures?

A: I'm always on the lookout for a deal. If I see something on clearance that I feel might be useful, I will usually buy it. Furthermore, I'm always open to new ideas. One never knows when the right base figure or new character design might spark something. To that end, I'll stock up on figures I know are useful as I find them. I try to keep a working stock of figures and resort to things like eBay as little as possible.

Q: Will you sell or trade a figure from your stock?

A: Outside of a specific item for trade, I am not in the habit of releasing my stock figures.

Q: How do you store your stock parts and fodder?

A: Everyone has their own system and space. On my work desk, I keep a transparent tower of drawers. It's perfect for small parts like heads, limbs, hats, etc. (Found at the Container Store.) I also maintain a closet that has a good deal of storage capacity. In addition to housing certain parts of my collection, it currently holds several large drawers with semi-transparent faces. Each is organized to hold certain types of figures and body parts. Near it are several medium sized transparent drawers for capes and other accessories. And of course, several shoe and file boxes, each holding a different category of stuff.

One thing to keep in mind: some figures can become terribly warped if left under weights for long periods of time. Make sure those kinds of figures don't get buried under other figures for too long.

Q: What's your work space like?

A: I have several work areas. The main one is my general purpose desk. This is where I do most of the work, including assembly, sanding, Dremeling and painting. This desk is very much specialized towards customizing. I also have a full workshop in the garage for more general construction, and will often utilize power tools for customs when I need them. (God bless the scroll saw!) In the corner of the garage is a unique construct that usually makes guests scratch their heads: a spray booth made from an old Little Mermaid shower curtain. The frame is made from PVC pipe, and inside is an old pattern cabinet (like in the fabric stores) that's perfect for storing spray paint. The cabinet is 42" tall,making it the perfect height to use as a work surface. There's also an old spinning TV stand in there that allows me to rotate figures so I can spray all sides. Across the top is a line of string and clips allowing me to air dry those things that can't be touching a surface. (Since there's no vent, I always wear a filtered mask of some kind.)

Q: How do I take great photos of figures?

A: Every photographer has his or her own methods. For my part, I use an old fashioned 500 watt flood lamp about 6 feet back from the figure and three feet higher. I'll also use a standard 60 watt desk lamp as a secondary light source about 2 feet away. (See the diagram to the left.) Camera-wise, I'm currently using a digital Pentax Optio 555. It has a great macro feature, allowing for extreme close-ups.

Q: How do I find your stuff on eBay?

A: Just search for seller “Casimir.”

Q: Why did you begin customizing Batman figures?

A: I'm a big Batman and DC fan, and I wanted to add to the list of available figures released.

Q: Why not Star Wars, Marvel, Buffy or (random sci-fi project)?

A: Simply put, I make what I like. I have made a few non-DC items, such as Transformers PVCs (and I tend to “fix” Buffy figures for the Violist!), but somehow I always return to DC and Batman. (Though there are plenty of pop culture things out there that I love, even if I don’t make customs of them.)

Q: How can I get a job in the toy industry like you?

A: First, I don't work in the toy industry. Second, you'll need a lot of luck. In the past, the large toy manufacturers wanted only people with engineering backgrounds. If you were artistically talented and knew all there was to know about toys, they wouldn't talk to you. To a degree, I think that's still true. Things have changed somewhat in recent years, though. Now the large companies are more willing to farm out jobs to independent sculpting studios (like the Four Horsemen), but those studios are few and far between. Even fewer are commercially successful.

Q: How long has the site been open?

A: Inanimate Objects has been proudly operating since April, 2003.

Q: What was the inspiration for the site's design?

A: Golden age comic books, of course! Specifically, old and beat up ones. When I design something of this nature, I like to start with a general theme and work my way towards the specifics. For this most recent design, I had spent weeks racking my brain for a satisfying concept. Suddenly, I found inspiration had been in front of me all along. On my desk, I have framed a very beat up copy of Detective Comics #247 that belonged to my father in the early fifties. (One of the few that survived from his childhood.) I realized that was the place to start. Even the color pallette was perfect! So I pulled out my many comic book reference tomes and started to pick the golden age elements I wanted to use. The final result is the site as it appears today.

Q: Where else can Casimir be found?

A: I run Raving Toy Maniac’s Custom Central, setting up galleries for other customizers and making general contributions to RTM. Plus I drop by the various customizing forums as time allows. (There are far too many sites to keep up with these days!)

Q: How many years have you been making your own action figures?

A: If you mean how long have I made a concentrated effort at making these figures in a consistent size and quality? Since 1995. If you mean in general, since I was old enough to take a screw driver to the back of a G.I. Joe figure.

Q: How do you decide which figures to make next?

A: I keep a running list of characters I'd like to see standing on my shelf. Sometimes the decision to make a character is motivated by the simple desire to make it. Sometimes it's prompted by a the discovery of a new figure that would act as an appropriate base, or sometimes by a sculpting or painting technique that is new to me. For example, I've recently started several projects using vinyl as a prominent component. Most of these projects might not have happened for sometime had I not stumbled upon the versatile uses of vinyl.

Q: How much time and money goes into each figure?

A: Well, from the initial desire to make the figure to the final product can literally take years. Sometimes I'll want to make a character, but the means of making it won't exist yet, or might be too costly at that time. Other times I'll have a hard time figuring out how to proceed with a project, but months later I'll have inspiration as to how.

Assuming I have all the materials, the average figure might take a few days to several weeks depending on my interest in the character and interference from real life. As for money, that's hard to say. As an artist, I keep a large supply of materials on hand at all times. That includes "fodder," or figures bought with the express purpose of using them in future custom projects. In most instances, I can go to the fodder boxes and pull what I need to start work, without having to purchase anything at that moment.

Q: How long have you been a Batman fan?

A: Since I was old enough to watch TV. I probably learned to read with the words "Pow," "Bam, and "Crunch." Of course, this leads to vaguely disturbing memories of not understanding why I got uncomfortable whenever my mother was in the same room and Yvonne Craig was on TV.